Mittwoch, 27. August 2014

male sewing: a classic shirt Pt. 1

For me one of the pleasures of sewing is to learn classic techniques. Those things that make a garment a tailored piece. 

I'm in my 10th year of sewing now (whaaaat??) and when I started, my goal was to produce something that could be identified as a dress or a skirt or whatever. I did not think so much about finishing or alterations back then.

During the years, my standards reached a higher level. I can be a terrible perfectionist. I want to make my garments on tailoring standards (high goal).
I started reading books about couture sewing techniques for example. I do a lot of sewing by hand and I like to use old school finishing techniques. Because I'm so in love with past eras, this almost comes natural. 

One of those items is the classic mens shirt. You can find some traditional details, that are a must for a classic shirt, like the stand-up collar, the sleeve plackets, the doubled yoke. 

I just finished the first mens shirt I've ever done and I'm really happy with the result. As I told you, I am a perfectionist, so of course there is room for improvements though.

I used a burdastyle pattern and after making a muslin, I took out some width at the side seams. Beside this the pattern fits very well.




This shirt was a kind of wearable muslin. The fabric was from the sale section and if all had gone wrong, it would have been sad but not to sad. I used plaid fabric, which wasn't the best decision for making the first shirt ;)
Plaid is nice but the cutting and sewing process is a bit exhausting. I tried to match the checks as good as possible, but it wasn't easy. The fabric is very nice and actually easy to handle, but it tends to stretch a bit and that is why I couldn't match all the squares perfectly. 


Of course I had my team around me. They helped a lot during the cutting process.


I bought the German version of the pattern, but you can also get it at burdastyle.com. There is only one page of instructions, which I really liked ;) If you need more help you can take a look at this nice forum (it is in German). There is also a class at craftsy that is on my wish list as well. I also had one of my vintage sewing books near the sewing table.


I like to see the pile of pieces become smaller and smaller while I sew. Even if I'm not finished with the whole garment at the end of a sewing session, I feel good if I see that I have assembled all pieces in a way. For the shirt, I started to prepare the collar first.



It is a two-piece collar with a collar-stand. I think this was my first one ever, I only made one-piece collars before. It wasn't so difficult, good marking and basting helps a lot here. 


After putting the collar and the stand together, I arranged it on my tailors ham and gave it a good press.


I also did a fell seam for the first time. I really like it for it is sturdy and nice on the in and outside. There will be a tutorial on how to do a fell seam soon.


When I switched off my Bernina this night, the shirt looked like that.



The next time we meet I will show you the second part of making the shirt including the finished result. If you are just to curious to wait you may find a sneak peak on one of my social media channels....


Yours,

Melanie

Donnerstag, 21. August 2014

In love with: vintage jeans

I'm a sucker for denim and when it comes to vintage fashion, I like it even more. Honestly, I would wear anything made from denim. I have dresses, bags, skirts and of course pants. 

Sometimes vintage style dresses can be a little too dressy in the everyday life. Sometimes I just want to wear a pair of jeans and a shirt. But I still want the whole outfit to have a vintage touch. That's where a nice pair of jeans comes in. Let's swoon over some vintage jeans goodness:











Saddle shoes are on top of my wish list (the other list, beside the never-ending sewing wish list...).

Dienstag, 19. August 2014

places to go & sew: Nähkontor

Today I'm gonna start a new category on this blog and I call it "places to go and sew". Its gonna be a kind of "outdoor" category, where I will introduce fabric shops and other sewing related places. And because I live in Berlin, the first location is a nice fabric shop I recently discovered. 

It is called "Nähkontor" and it's located in Prenzlauer Berg. When I first came in there, I was pleased by the nice 1950s interior. They did a great job with that, its like you go shopping through a time machine. You can get everything the sewing heart desires (fabric, notions etc.), but they also offer sewing classes and services like self-fabric covered buttons and belts. I didn't know that this services is offered by here in Berlin. 

If you like sewing (I guess so) and if you're in Berlin and maybe you have a faible for vintage interior and notions (I obviously have.), that's your place.


NÄHKONTOR

Bötzowstraße 13
10407 Berlin







Mittwoch, 6. August 2014

summer sale in my Shop!

Dear Readers,

until 31th of August I'm running a summer sale in my Dawanda Shop. You get 15 % off :)

Fashion Fantastica on Dawanda



See you soon,


Mel

Freitag, 18. Juli 2014

just a little jersey dress


A few days ago I told you about my planned projects. I'd like to make more simple jersey dresses, because I really like to wear them to work. They are so easy to combine and feel very comfortable. I also like them for traveling. I think that they look nice and classy, but are as comfortable as a shirt.

This dress was made by using a shirt pattern from burdastyle magazine 2/2011, but you can also find it here on burdastyle.com. I made two shirts using this pattern and this time I used it as a bodice for my dress. I lenghtened the bodice and added a ruffled skirt piece (a simple rectangle). The fabric is striped jersey, which looks like grey in these pictures. 






Do you like jersey dresses? Do you have pattern suggestions?


Yours,
Melanie


Dienstag, 15. Juli 2014

New place, new projects

Dear readers,

I didn't have much time during the past weeks because I moved to a new home. On the last weekend I was able to unpack my machines. Although my new sewing corner is still in development, it is nice to see some time for new projects coming soon. Until then I'd like to share some of the upcoming projects with you:


  • a classic mens shirt: I'd like to broaden my horizon and try to make some mens wear. Yesterday I assembled this pattern by burdastyle.de. Fabric is ordered.
  • jersey dresses: I need some simple jersey dresses. Although I like my fancy 50s dresses, sometimes I just want to wear something simple. I really like to wear them for work. I have the beautiful Moneta pattern by Colette Patterns and the cute Coco pattern by Tilly printed and ready for assembling. Need to shop the fabrics for them.
  • Not an actual project, but a new book: Fit for Real people was on my wishlist for a very long time now. Because I want to get better with adjustments made directly to the pattern I decided that it is time to order it now. When I start a new project with a new pattern, I always make a muslin. And that's okay, but I'd like to learn faster techniques for fitting. The book is highly recommended by a lot of people, I'm really looking forward to its arrival.
What have you planned for the second half of 2014?


Yours, Melanie

Donnerstag, 5. Juni 2014

A little contest

Dear readers,

I'm taking part in a little competition over on facebook. It is a profile picture contest and would appreciate each like that you may give me :)

Pin-Up Germany profile picture contest

Thanks a lot !


Mel

Samstag, 24. Mai 2014

Hey, Sailor!

Today it's all about maritime flair! As I told you in my last post, I shoot some more outfits last month.
The first one is the Wearing History Playsuit, I already posted it here and here. Time went by and I never took some nice pictures of the whole outfit, so I took the chance!










I made another sailor pin up outfit back in 2008. The pattern was drafted by myself. Here it is, 2014 and my 2008 me:







Mittwoch, 23. April 2014

Hey Linda, let's play!

I'm on vacation right now, so I took the chance to finally do a new selfie photo session today. 

I must confess, I didn't sew so much during the first months of 2014. Life came across, but I'm pretty happy about that. Also most of the time I made things for my little shop. But now its vacation week and that means: sewing, just for me! 

Today I show you a fast and easy project I wipped up, between work, life and shop sewing. It is the Linda skirt from burdastyle (which I made two times before) paired with a cute little top, it makes this vintage inspired playsuit. The pattern is in the latest issue of Burda Easy magazine here in Germany. A really nice stash buster, because it needs so little fabric. When I buy fabric I try to squeeze as much items out of it as possible. This cute corduroy was meant to be a skirt, but now I have a little playsuit and the really little left overs will be hair accessoires. I like, when I don't have to throw away so much. The fabric has very tiny polka dots and as mentioned above, its a corduroy. And it has little apple buttons, how cute is that?? And because my hair was quite good today, I shoot my bombshell dress from Gertie's Craftsy course. And some more, but I'll save that for another post...




























Mittwoch, 16. April 2014

Who made your clothes?

Did you ever think about, who made your clothes? Well, most of us will not, when they're buying the lastest fashion trends for only a few Euro. But shouldn't we question our self, who really pays the price for the cheap clothes? 

In one week it will be one year since the Rana Plaza disaster in Bangladesh, where more than 1000 people died. 

That's why right now there a lot of events around the world.

I wanted to share some of them with you:

This is a real good interactive report by the Guardian:

http://www.theguardian.com/world/ng-interactive/2014/apr/bangladesh-shirt-on-your-back


Fashion Revolution Day is featuring a lot of events in several cities around the world:

http://fashionrevolution.org/

And please check out this short movie by Mary Night, produced by White Lodge, , think of them who made your clothes:





I think its about time to question the consumption habits of the western world, not only in fashion. And anyone should start by them self, shouldn't we?